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Fishing Tips

HOW TO RIG CUT PLUG HERRING

CUSTOMIZE YOUR OWN EGG CURE!

WRAPPING PLUGS FOR RIVER SALMON

CURING AND DYING PRAWNS

HOW TO RIG CUT PLUG HERRING

Herring Supplies HERRING SUPPLIES
Brining frozen tray herring: top guides use either Pro-Cure's Brine 'n Bite Bait brine or a rock salt brine to toughen baits and set scales. Add a few drops of Bait Brite bait brightner to your brine solution to add extra shine to your baits. If you are using fresh baits they need to be toughened quickly. Use 1 cup rock salt to 1 quart clean water, with 1/2 cup of Brine 'n Bite Bait Brine added. Soak baits immediately upon purchase. Always keep brined and fresh baits ice cold. If your baits get warm they will turn to mush, and can't be kept on the hook. A little ice goes a long way.

 

 
Plug Cutting Baits

PLUG CUTTING BAITS
There are 3 variables to getting a cut plug herring to roll correctly. #1 is the angle of the cut (which is a compound angle and can be tricky for beginners), #2 is the placement of the hooks, and #3 is your troll speed or current speed. The use of a quality bait cutter gives you the exact same angle of cut for each bait, and eliminates the variable of different angles on every cut bait. With the same angle cut every time all you have to do is fine tune your hook placement for perfect rolls every time.

Removing Guts

REMOVING GUTS FROM BAIT
After plug cutting your bait lay the bait on its side with the short side of the cut facing up. Gently press down on the bait until the guts start to bulge out of the bait, and with the dull side of your knife catch the guts and carefully pull them out from the body cavity. Carefully remove as much of the guts form the body cavity without damaging your bait. (note: if you are in an extremely heavy bite, with lots of fish around you, some guides chose to leave the guts in for extra smell and scent in the water.)

Opening Vent

OPENING VENT
After removing cuts from body cavity make an incision from the anal vent up to the pectoral (belly) fins. This allows for water to pass through the body cavity, and puts less drag on your baits. This becomes extremely critical in heavy current or if you chose to troll very fast.

Hook Spacing

HOOK SPACING
When tying two hook leaders tie on trailing hook first using a basic egg loop bumper knot. Slide the top hook down your leader and measure the distance between hooks so that the trailing hook is at the notch of the tail or to the tip of the tail, with the top hook about 1/4 to 3/8" into the top of the bait's cut angle. Many anglers like to use 30 to 50 pound leaders, but top guides will tell you you'll get lot's more strikes if you keep the leader test at 25 pounds. The major reason for this is the finer diameter line allows your bait to roll more freely, and a faster tighter roll produces more strikes.

Trailing Hook Placement

TRAILING HOOK PLACEMENT
Take the trailing hook and carefully run the hook out the tall side of the bait's lateral line. When placing this hook go as deeply into the body cavity as you can before working the hook through the side of the bait, taking care not to tear up the side of the bait as you work the hook through it.

Top Hook Placement

Another Angle Top Hook Placement
Another look at the top hook's position going through the spine
and coming out the short side of the bait.

TOP HOOK PLACEMENT
This is extremely critical to get the correct roll on your bait. Looking at your cut bait straight on you'll see that the spine runs from the top of the body cavity to the top of the bait. If you were looking at a clock the spine would be in the 12 o'clock position. The spine is also the toughest part of your bait, so to keep your bait on during heavy current or faster troll speeds it is imperative that your top hook go through the spine. Start by placing your top hook into the body cavity at the 9 o'clock position (left side of the spine) and carefully working the hook through the spine so that it comes out the short side of the bait between the 12:30 and 2:30 position. When the hook point comes out the short side it should only be 1/4' to 3/8" from the edge of the cut. If this top hook is placed too deeply into the body cavity it creates a 'hinge' point, and you get a roll where the head of the bait is rolling in a 2 or 3 inch circle, and the tail is rolling in a wide 6 to 8 inch circle. With the tail flaying out in a wild circle you might catch a few Silvers in a red hot bite, but Chinook will rarely hit it. Picture your rolling bait traveling down a clear 3" pipe. Your bait should be rolling inside this pipe, with neither the head nor the tail of the bait touching the pipe. This tight roll is accomplished by not placing the top hook too deeply into the body cavity. It is not how deeply you place this top hook that holds your bait on, it is going through the bait's spine that does the trick. You can make slight adjustments to the roll by trying the top hook position between the 12:30 and 2:30 position. Again, if the tail of your bait is out there flopping around you've probably got your top hook placed too deeply into the body cavity.

Perfectly Rigged Bait

A PERFECTLY RIGGED BAIT
Note how shallow the top hook is into the baits body cavity, and that the trailing hook measures between the notch of the tail and the tip of the tail.

Injecting Baits

INJECTING BAITS
Top guides know the more good scent the better, and many inject their rigged baits with top quality Herring oil, or blends of Herring Oil, Herring Bait Sauce, with small amounts of Anise or Garlic oil added.

To inject rigged baits carefully hold bait and insert the needle to full depth on each side of the body cavity. Inject the needle into the meat parallel to the spine, and squeeze only when retracting the needle. Basically you're filling the hole the needle makes with fish oil that will slowly lead out as the bait is trolled.

 
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CUSTOMIZE YOUR OWN EGG CURE!

It's easy with PRO-CURE Custom Egg Curing Supplies. Just follow the suggested recipes, or experiment on your own to come up with your secret "can't miss" egg cure.

BASIC SULFITE CURE:

  • 1 cup white granulated sugar
  • 1 cup non iodized salt
  • 1 cup Pro-Cure Sodium Sulfite
  • Add 1/8 to 1 Teaspoon Pro-Cure Bad Azz Bait Dye to get Fluorescent colored eggs.

Mix well until all ingredients are blended.

This is a great basic cure. It should cure about 1 pound of eggs for every 2 to 3 tablespoons of this cure. This is a heavy milking, durable egg cure. Of course with no dye added your eggs will come out a natural egg color. Here are a few hints to improve it.

Add 1 cup Pro-Cure Plain Borax (or Pro-Cure colored Borax) to the above recipe. The borax will not only toughen the individual egg 'shell' but also toughens the membrane (skein) that holds the eggs together. Adding the plain white borax will give you a nice natural colored egg. By adding the colored borax to your basic cure you can put some really neat subtle colors into your eggs (reds, pinks and oranges.) By adding the borax you can omit the salt, or cut down the amount you are using. Also don't be afraid to mix the colored Borax with the Fluorescent Bad Azz Bait Dyes. You can get some really neat custom colors this way.

Adding dye: for the traditionally bright fluorescent colored eggs try adding some of PRO-CURE's new Bad Azz Bait Dyed to the above curing formula. Experiment until you get the color egg you want. Start by adding small amounts of the dye to your formula. For example start by adding 1/4 teaspoon of the Brilliant Fluorescent Red dye to your basic formula, shake it all up and try it on a few fresh egg clusters. If it's too pale a color add more dye to your basic formula until you have the color egg you want. With the new Bad Azz Bait Dye you can cure eggs into fluorescent red, pink, purple, orange, chartreuse and blue. (note: if you have dark eggs or previously frozen or salted eggs you are best to stick to the dominant colors like red, purple and blue. To get the best results with the orange, pink and chartreuse dyes its best to work with the freshest, palest eggs.

1 to 2 tablespoons Sodium Metabisulfite can be added to the above cure. Salmon really love the flavor of this "hot' Chemical, but be cautious. If you add too much it will fry your eggs. They will melt down in front of your eyes, and turn into deflated strings of goo, or your eggs may turn rock hard. A maximum amount for the above egg cure would be 1/8 of a cup.

1 Tablespoon of Sodium Nitrite can also be added to the above formula. It is a flavor the salmon seem to like, but it is also a powerful mold inhibitor. The Japanese use it a lot is their salt brines for eggs as it gives natural eggs a deep reddish color.

Bite Stimulants and attractants: add 1 to 2 teaspoons of Monster Bite to any of the above formulas. These powerful amino acids will really put lock jaw salmon and steelhead on the bite.

HOT CURE

  • 1 cup White granulated sugar
  • 1 cup Pro-Cure plain white or colored Borax
  • 1/8 cup Pro-Cure Sodium Sulfite
  • 1/8 cup Pro-Cure Sodium Metabisulfite
  • 1 tablespoon Pro-Cure Sodium Nitrite

STEELHEAD CURE

  • 1 cup White granulated sugar
  • 1 cup Non iodized Salt
  • 1 cup Pro-Cure Borax ( plain white or colored)
  • 1 tea. Monster Bite
  • Fluorescent dye if desired ( 1/8 to 1 tea.)

CUSTOMIZE PREMADE COMMERCIAL EGG CURES - If you don't want to mess around with building your own custom egg cure it's really easy to customize an existing egg cure to your liking. With all of the pressure from really good fisherman it is of vital importance to have an egg that is just a little bit different. Here are some suggestions:

Carefully pour out the contents of a 12 ounce bottle of PRO-CURE Egg Cure into a tight lidded plastic jar. The dye dust will float around so make sure you do this somewhere you won't be ruining your house, furniture, carpet, etc. Now add:
1 heaping tablespoon Sodium Metabisulfite
1 teaspoon Monster Bite

The addition of both of these ingredients will give your cure a totally different flavor. You can also add 1 cup of Pro-Cure Borax (white or colored) to get a tougher, less sticky egg.

WIZARD EGG CURE - Carefully pour out the contents into a tight lidded plastic jar. The dye dust will float around so make sure you do this somewhere you won't be ruining your house, furniture, carpet, etc. Now add:
1 heaping tablespoon Sodium Metabisulfite
You can also add 1 cup of Pro-Cure Borax (white or colored) to get a tougher, less sticky egg.

For a sweeter egg add 1/2 cup to 1 cup of white granulated sugar to any of the above formulas.

 
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